On June 9, 2011 Holden has issued an alert to owners of Jackaroos of a potential condition to those vehicles fitted with 3.0L diesel engines.
According to the notice, Holden has identified a potential condition which may cause an unintended increase in engine speed whilst the engine is idling.
The following engines are those identified as being affected:
- 1998 JACUBS73GW7100010 – JACUBS73GW7103492
- 1999 JACUBS73GX7100566 – JACUBS73GX7104876
- 2000 JACUBS73GY7100012 – JACUBS73GY7107235
- 2001 JACUBS73G17101509 – JACUBS73G17102996
- 2002 JACUBS73G27100274 – JACUBS73G27107074
“Owners of the affected vehicles will be contacted by letter outlining the process for arranging a free of charge inspection and rework of the wiring harness.
If you require any further information please contact your nearest Holden Dealer or call the Holden recall and rework assistance line on 1800 632 826. This service operates 8am to 7pm EST Monday to Friday and 9am to 1pm EST Saturdays except National Public Holidays.”
see http://www.recalls.gov.au/content/index.phtml/itemId/1003878 for details.
76 thoughts on “Holden Jackaroo Recall Notice”
For those with Jackaroos affected,
I have this week had the recall work carried out by Holden. The proceedure issued by Holden directs the serviceman to cut away part of the rubber boot that covers the terminal connector on top of the ECM to allow for the termination of the additional wiring. This leaves this area prone to the ingress of water, oil and dirt. When I asked if this could be rectified I was told that the part is not available through Holden. I have looked at this and believe this work could actually have been completed without damage to the rubber boot. This may be of some interest to other members with Jackaroo’s affected by this current recall.
Mine was done at Lilydale yesterday,it now has 5cm bits of black tape covering the connection on the ECM wonderful
Attached is a photo of the work done on my Jackaroo by Preston Motors, Essendon.
Overall, I think a reasonable job (for a mechanic) but I’ll have to follow up with a bit of silicone sealer on the connector.
It is probably best at this stage to warn members with a couple of pics that they might wish to take to the dealer.:
and demand that they have the new cable pass THROUGH the sleeve into the rubber boot rather than cutting the boot and leaving it open to the elements.
I had mine done at John collins Holden Mornington today.
I took the photos from this site and was assured it would not be
done by cutting the boot.
When I inspected it on getting home and unwinding some tape…..
sure enough it was split as in other examples.
I have just come across your web site and was intersted in feedback regarding recall. Thank-you. I am in the process of getting Holden to check their “work” as my Jack is left in same condition. I am far from happy as we are experiencing wet weather and have a huge road trip ahead of me this week. The re-call has done nothing to “fix” idle/rev problem so between my son and I we are in the process of trouble shooting from the Net. It appears the injector seals (first re-call) have once again failed and I am now finding oil in my wiring harness direct from injectors. I phoned GMH to ask how long first re-call stood for and it is 2yrs or 50,000kms (guess which comes first!!). They have suggested take it back to Holden dealer (yeah, right) and ask them to inspect vehicle and seek their opinion and then notify Holden. I am on my own, and apart from son going into bat for me, most mechanics can’t be bothered giving me the time of day. Next step is to replace ORPS as soon as I can afford to. Any suggestions, oh, and do want to keep her!!
Hi, just read Lea’s post above. I have just recieved a $6000 repair bill for my Jack because of the same issues you (and a lot of other owners) have. The injector recall a couple of years ago seems to have used possibly faulty/inferior seals which lets oil into the cooling system, destroying the pump, hoses, tube, radiator and softening seals also. Fuel is also allowed to enter the oil pan due to the seals causing Glow Plug damage, misfiring etc. When the injectors were replaced, the oil sensor wiring loom was broken by the Holden mechanic (at cost to me). This loom also has a seal that corrodes and softens in a short period causing oil to run down the loom into the CPU. This is a very common issue with the 4JX1 engines and one Holden mechanic told me that this is the main reason they stopped making the engine.
I urge anyone with the above issues to get a good diesel mechanic on it asap, $6000 is more than my 2002 3.0 TD is worth so I’ll be selling mine as is and hopefully recoupe a couple of grand on it. Anyone interested can contact me via email firstname.lastname@example.org
Thanks and good 4wdriving!
Had mine actioned at Essendon, did a very good job. The boots were already split with age, and the dealer taped them up so its a better now than before the work.
Well done Essendon Holden
Has anybody had engine problems after getting the work done?
I’m having heaps.
Initially the engine started cutting out at idle. Didn’t worry too much as I thought they’d set idle too low. Then it would stop and take half a dozen goes to re-start. When I took it in complaining they said they found a loose pin and they had fixed it.
Next day the engine wouldn’t start for quite a while. When it finally started after several goes it would barely run, roughly, and the throttle had no effect. After a few seconds it would stop, and the process would repeat. Had it towed in to the dealer where it sat for more than a week, malfunctioning, with them running all sorts of tests but unable to find the fault. Eventually they said it was due to an oil leak fouling the connector on the injector harness, cleaned it, pronounced it fixed. Drove home OK, next day the problem is back. Have to crank repeatedly to get it started, then it might run for a while, lose power and stop. Or it runs very slowly and roughly, no power and throttle has no effect.
HELP!!! Anybody experienced a similar problem before I hand over a blank cheque?
I’ve passed you comment on via email to Club members – lets see if anyone has a coment.
The main problems with Turbo diesel 4JX1 causing it to run poorly or not start are:
1. Wrong oil grade. (Should be 5/30 or 10/30 for Melbourne)
2. ORPS (Oil Rail Pressure Sensor) which monitors the oil pressure to the injectors.
3. RPCV (Rail Pressure Control Valve) which adjusts the pressure to the injectors via the ORPS.
4. TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) which monitors the position of the throttle.
5. CKP (Crankshaft Position Sensor) which monitors the position of the crankshaft and sets up the injector timing pulses.
6. Injector wiring harness and connector getting oil soaked.
Items 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 should set a fault code (see Tip #10) .
– The engine oil and filter should be changed regularly and the supplementary oil filter should be changed at every second oil change. CRITICAL
– The ORPS should be replaced at 150,000km CRITICAL
– The RPCV should be cleaned at 150,000km CRITICAL
– The TPS should be replaced at 150,000km (NOT CRITICAL)
– The CKP may “wear out” due to end float in the crankshaft – more common on the manual tranmsission. It may not show a fault code! Remove sensor and check condition of the sensor face.
– The injector wiring harness should be checked at the connector near the throttle body. If the connector is oil soaked then clean with petrol or methylated spirits.
These problems and fixes are covered in more detail by the series of Jackaroo Tips available on request.
Thanks very much for your comments.
Have been using 5W30 oil since the injector recall in 2006. Wouldn’ start in coild weather otherwise, even in Perth. Got them to change the oil just in case they put in the wrong grade last service (only a couple of months ago).
Holden are replacing the injector wiring harness and the ORPS. We’ll see what happens when that gets done. If I’d got this post sooner I’d have got them to clean the RPCV. They say the throttle circuit checks out OK.
I’ll let you know what happens when I get the car back.
Hello. I’ve recently purchased a non going 2001 4jx1 Jackaroo with 120,000k’s. Its got diesel mixing with the oil. I removed the injectors with the tips on 3 of them blown out like the points on a crown. Though i havn’t seen this car going , is it worth persisting with? I only paid $3000 for it and it has low K’s. According to the sticker ,it had its injectors replaced in 2006. I will change the injectors, loom, oil sensor and seals can anyone suggest the cheapest place to get parts?
While taking it apart I also noticed oil/diesel through the turbo, intercooler and air intake pipe. Even with the injector fault they are a heap cheaper than a Patrol or Landcruiser.
Hi PJ, the sage continues.
Got the Jack back 3 days ago after rwo weeks in the dealer’s workshop. They replaced the fuel injector harness and OPRS. Then when they took it for a test drive the clutch failed. The two parts of the dual mass flywheel had come apart. Got them to replace it with a non genuine clutch kit and single mass flywheel. $5,400 and three days later the original fault is back. Idles erratically and cuts out. When it restarts it idles roughly and does not respond to the throttle for a while, then it eventually winds up slowly and starts to respond OK. Until it dies again.
I’m not sure where to go from here. I’ve asked them repeatedly to check the TPS and wiring as the fault first evidenced itself when they did the throttle harness recall, but they say it’s OK. I suppose that leaves the RPCV (and fuel pressure pump?) and of course the very expensive engine management computer.
Hi everyone My Jack is a 99 petrol model and is giving me no end of trouble at the moment. On startup it revs to around 3000rpm then reduces to a cough and splutter and then conks out. A mobile mechanic put it on a diagnostic tool which really was inconclusive . Please help
Hi Darren, I want to comment on the Fuel oil mixing with the lube oil. This is possibly an issue of the injector seals in the head rather than over fueling though this could also be a problem. I have a mate that is very well aquainted with this engine and the UEI system. Correct installation of the injector seals is critical as it will lead to fuel oil in the coolant and or the lube oil.
As an aside issue I have been using penrite 5w 40 diesel oil since the engine was replaced 50k ago. I recently did an oil change and though I would try Mobile 1. The agent recommended 5w 50, $75/5lts. After 300kms I’m thinking this has not got the go it should have…. thinking thinking….. every now and then it would really get up and go the wind down again. I postulated that the 50w oil was doing what it was supposed to do and that is, increase it’s viscosity with an increase in temp. I drained the oil 🙁 and replace it with penrite 5w 40. Within 60seconds of run time the issue was gone, power was restored and all is good with world again.
DRIVING HOME ON FRIDAY AFTER CITY HOLDEN TRIED TO FIX MY 3.0 TURBO GOT 5 KM FROM DEALERSHIP WHEN IT STARTED REVING OUT POORING BLACK SMOKE UNTIL IT DIED RANG HOLDENS TOLD TO TOW IT BACK TO HOLDENS AND THEY WILL LOOK AT IT IF ITS THERE FAULT (HARD TO PROVE) THEY WILL FIX IT IF NORMAL WEAR AND TEAR I WOULD BE LIABLE FOR COST OF DAGNOSING FAULTS APROX $3000 YEAH RIGHT I SHOULD PAIT THE JACK YELLOW AND PARK AT THE FRONT OF HOLDENS FACTORY AT ELIZABETH
The jackaroo 4JX1 runs 2 oil pumps 2nd one in sump .This one is to keep the oil presure up to the injectors to open and close for fuel supply to engine( simple version). If oil grade is wrong or pump is loose or worn it will be hard to start on hills or run roughly or run for a short time and then stop. You may even think you have air in the fuel lines. I had a $3000 experience with a holden dealer and no result.Younger brother who is a diagnostic diesel mechanic with large truck dealership figured out the problem. Hope this is of some help.
I have had the last recall done back in august and since then my Jack 99 turbo stops. It happens maybe once or twice a week and then can be fine for a week or two. It usually cuts out of a morning and usually going around a corner at the time but starts straight back up again.I have also noticed that it runs a bit rough since they had it. Not really sure as to what is going on but Jack hasn’t been the same since. I really hate having to deal with holden but I thought I would just see if anyone else has the same problem, could it be from them cutting the boot rubber and dust and crap getting around the wires.
This cutting out sounds like the sump pickups (2 of them) have seals that have shrunk. Use ultra blue gasket sealer after a good clean of carby cleaner to get good adhesion. Bolt up but loosely and use enough sealer to bond together outside the join but make sure no sealer gets inside the pipe to cause blockages in the system (will cost you heaps). Retighten 24 hrs later to complete the seal. This problem will cause turbos to blow also as the flow of oil will diminish as will the oil pressure to the rail pressure control unit and that will affect the amount of fuel delivery (= acrid white diesel fuel smoke).
I had to remove the brace under the small steel sump at the rear of the engine. My sump pan deformed badly (using flat priers) when removing but fixed that with a careful bit of thumping with a soft plastic mallet with several sheets of newspaper on a flat concrete floor. Replaced using the Ultra Blue gasket sealant (no other gasket required). The trick with this stuff is to leave it to set after a soft tightening and retighten fully after 24 hours.
Also good for sealing leaking harnesses and the harness gasket under the tappet cover. Just a smear on top is needed to increase the pressure ans seal the whole thing. I also used this to seal inside the wires through the exit point. Use MAP cleaner (NOT carby cleaner) to get oil out plus mop up with clean tissues.
Hi guys and girls,
Not sure if in the right kind of spot for this, but here goes….
Have a 2000 Jakeroo for sale, 3.5lt petrol that has done the engine(lost comp in 5 cylinders). All else is spot on, blue over champagne 179000 on driveline, all interior and panels 100% 5 mfactory mags and 70%. Transmission all ok!!!!
MUST SELL ASAP AS WE HAVE REPLACED THE CAR AND DONT HAVE SPACE TO SELL FOR PARTS. MAKE ME AN OFFER
I have been waiting for 3 months for a set of new injectors. I contacted the supplier and they said they couldn’t get any from Japan so they are on back order from Europe. Why are they so hard to get when its such a common fault with Jackaroo’s? If it takes much longer I will forget how the bloody motor goes back together. Dumb question but has anyone tried installing a different diesel engine into these things or is it just far to hard?
Looks like the answer is no. I’ve just on posted this – lets see if we get a comment…
I’ve been having similar issues as Armando and Co. since we took our jack in for the recall work. Intermitent power under acceleration, poor to no idle, stalling (hard to do normally in an auto) Have had countless mechanics and $$ spent on it, but its just not the same, am very reluctant to go back to holden. Am almost at the stage where I am going to sell it as scrap
Just a follow up.. and thanks guys for putting up the pics as it helped with my simple fix.. The idiots at holden had left my cables exposed where they cut the boot open.. In desperation I smothered the internals with WD-40.. it ran, rough for about 5 mins, then smooth.. I sprayed again the next morning and she started 1st up without a hitch, perfect ..almost like new.
I have now sealed it with silicone and both me and jack are happy.
Thanks to the members here
Thanks Fred, glad we were of help.
have you any pic of the original job and your fix?
I’ll put them up.
hi all have holden jackaroo se 2000 diesel have diesel in radiator and water in fule tank what is going on have i got a cracked head all runing good and then just stoped
I’ve passed this to our tech guy for comment. But it does not sound good.
Jeremy it is (probably) injector seal failure. – As covered in Tip #21 So first step is to remove injectors and replace seals. Worst case scenario would be a cracked head
Thanks for that hope the seals the worst case thanks. Not much help out there CAN NOT GET MUCH FROM MACHANICS THEY DO NOT KNOW MUCH ABOUT THE HOLDEN JACKAROO IT WOULD BE GOOD TO FIND ONE
Contact us via our web form, we will pass it to out club tech person
My 1999 3.0 turbo has done 145,000Ks and it has to be the bigest bastard of a vehicle I have ever owned with a 2000 model Statesman running a very close second I will never buy another Holden ever.
The Jackaroo has had the head gasket & head done now it will start but won’t rev I have looked after it had all the services done & this is what you get May-be I should have driven the guts out of it.
Holden GMH should be held accountable for the shit they sell so let’s spread the word about the holden’s Crappy cars.
Hi guys! I have just spent over $7grand having injectors, harness, oil pressure sensor etc replaced because my ‘Jack’ just ‘died’ on me. The mechanics at Goldy Holden in Perth took four days to figure out the problem and finally diagnosed a faulty solenoid. They also dropped the sump and said that they found a crack in one of the lift pipes. So, all this happened all at the same time! Yeah, right! Anyway, now my water temperature guage is not moving on the dfashboard. Can someone please tell me where the water temperature sensor is? I am assuming its the brass screww in part near to the thermostat housing but there appears to be several wires coming from the plug in attachment? Help!
The issue with diesel in radiator and water in fuel tank is the lower seal on the injector sleeve. Holdens like to tell you the head is cracked. I have repaired a number of thes for people. If diesel is entering engine oil it can be either the seal on the injector or the upper seal on the injector sleeve. If the problem is left too long the result will be an unrepairable head.
The water temperature sensor (ECT) is located at the front of the engine near the radiator hose. It has 2 wires. The operating water temp should be 80-90C. The resistance of the ECT at 25C = 2800ohm, and at 80C = 330ohm. Measure with an Ohmmeter with the connector removed. If the ECT measures OK then short the connector and note that the temp gauge should swing to Very HOT. If it doesn’t then suspect the wiring or the gauge.
Thank’s PJ. Matter ‘sorted’. Kind regards. Robert
Edwin…I also have problem with diesel in water and water in fuel. I took it to diesel and turbo mechanics and they repaired the injectors and sleeves etc at a cost of about $2000,couple of weeks later problem was back and they said it is a cracked head!!
Now im stuck with a car I cant afford to replace head, cant sell it (Ive tried). Are you in Perth? would be keen to chat to you.
Or anyone that can fix my car or give any advise. Maybe someone wants to buy it!! It is a 2000 Jackeroo has all the extra’s and in ex cond except the motor!! It still runs but Im too scared to drive it. Any advise??? thankyou
The sealing surface of the head where the lower o ring sits is critcal as there is approx 100 psi hot diesel at this point. When the job is done this surface needs to be polished with wet and dry to remove any residue. Also if the problem is let go for too long the presure of diesel will create a chanel in the aluminium. Only solution is to replace the head. Unfortunately I am in Qld. Won’t be in perth until Dec/Jan. (my old stomping ground)
Evening all. I have just completed the task of replacing the injectors, seals, oil, filters etc on my 2001 Diesel Jackaroo. After using 3 batteries to get it going, it finally started in a huge plume of light grey smoke. It ran for about 15 minutes belching smoke then it stalled. Wouldn’t start again, checked radiator. It had pressure build up and the oil is now milky. Not knowing its prior history, does any one think its a cracked head or are the seals still leaking? I used the old sleeves but new seals. Before I started the job I checked the water,fine. Checked the oil, it was mixed with diesel so I thought it was just the seals. But when I removed the injectors they were totally buggered. So after the big expense of just parts alone I have a Jackaroo I don’t know what to do with. Can anyone cheer me up with some bright ideas?
injector harness connector full of oil , runs rough ,carnt find anyone that will touch it , anyone have any ideas ?? 2002 3.0 turbo diesel
The injector wire harness is quite easy to replace, I purchased mine from Ramin Auto in Dubai. Much cheaper than Holden.
I have a 2001 petrol Jack and had a great time with but she now seems to be drinking oil. Not blowing smoke except initial start, no burning smell when running, radiator water all good. Not a mechanic so am up to any suggestion. The oil pressure gauge is all over the shop so no idea of whats going on.
You have not indicated how much oil it is using. If it is NOT blowing much smoke (or leaking oil) then check that the EGR valve has not seized. As you rev the engine you should be able to see the shaft in the EGR move. If in doubt remove the EGR and operate by hand and check that the diaphragm is intact. Also check that ALL the vacuum hoses have not cracked (particularly where they are connected to hot parts).
Re Barry’s problem with the engine cutting out while going around corners (23 Feb 12).
This could be the crankshaft position sensor. This may rub on the flywheel if the crankshaft end float is too great. To confirm this, remove the CKP (which is located next to the oil filter) and check whether it is showing signs of contact. If so, then replace it and use some shims to space it further from the flywheel. Try about 0.5mm max. Note that an internittent CKP may NOT show up in the fault codes.
Have 2002 3.0 Turbo diesel, engine response seems normal, but generating no power, sometimes reaches 3500 rpm just to change out of first (Automatic box) first thought was that turbo had died, now not so sure. Suggestions?
Oil in the injector harness is common with the 3 litre diesel Jackaroo. It is NOT a critical problem that requires replacement of the harness. Simply clean out the 10 way connector near the throttle with petrol or methylated spirits and carry on! You might have do it again in 10,000km but it is a quick simple job.
Lack of power in the 3 litre Turbo diesel can be due to: the vacuum hoses to the Manifold Pressure sensor MAP and the EGR valve cracking (and sometimes falling off). If there is no vacuum due to leaks the engine computer ECM will become confused with incorrect signals. Loss of vacuum may show in the fault codes forr the MAP. Get some new vacuum hose and replace ALL the old hoses.
Worst case scenario is possibly a failing Oil Rail Pressure Sensor ORPS or failing injectors.
Hello Darren, you mention the injector wiring harness is quite easy y to replace, is it documented on any forum ?
Many thanks in anticipation.
PJ’s Reply to Diesel 4jx1 Jackaroo appears to be my problem,
ie Oil in the Harness connector, down to outside sump, over the Gearbox.Black smoke out the back big time,on Heavy Throttle.
Oil 5/30w, New ORPS, New wiring Harness Clean RPCV.should be the Go.Where can I purchase these parts other than the H! dealer?
PJ would I be able to have access to the series of Jackaroo tips concerning these problems
Your message July 7th re;obtaining parts from Ramin Auto Dubai I have made contact with them and I would like to ask you;
(1)How did you receive your goods? re air courier, cost & Time.
(2)How did you pay for the goods Paypal, Western Union,Wire Service and were there any additional charges.
(3)Appear to be genuine parts.
Scott ask,Sept 2nd if there was any doco’s in replacing the Harness,was there any info available?
I’d appreciate your help.
Sorry for not replying sooner. I placed an order from Ramin auto via email, the parts arrived within a few weeks via courier and the parts are all genuine Isuzu. They are very good in checking part numbers by sending part diagrams via email. As for payment, the first time I paid via my bank which cost me fees. The second time I did it at home over the net via a money transfer company. Which also cost fees and many of these companies have a minimum transfer of $2000, so check around. Just remember, I think if its over $2000 you pay gst and it has to handled by an import handler who also charge. Not so if its only a few hundred. After all this I still saved about $600.
Now my question to anyone.
I installed the new injectors, towed it to a Holden dealer to program the injectors but it still wont start.
It will turn over but not fire. The Holden scan says that it cant see the ignition key. So is it the key chip or in the ignition switch? The mechanic is not sure what to check next. Do I go to the expense of a new ignition and keys????
Howdy. I have a 1999 3.5ltr SE model which is a dream car.
Unfort’ today my clutch snapped in the driveway after 2 days of it making strange noises.
What Im hoping is someone who may know of a reliable and trustworthy (difficult I know) mechanic in the Mornington Peninsula area who could assist me……..
Ive just brought a 2000 td 3.0. PIck it up tomorrow. Now im a little worried. I will be checking everything. And know what to look for. So a big thanx to everyone. Fingers crossed….
Hi, I purchased a Holden diesel SE last December and it has been running well… even now… but yesterday I found what seems to be fuel in the radiator. I have read all the comments but dammit I am a woman that knows little about cars and hates mechanics from previous experiences with them. Can anyone recommend a mechanic in Tasmania. I have only just noticed this so am not sure how long it has been going on or how bad it is.
Hi deanette I had the same problem you need a special tool to remove the injector sleeves to replace the o ring’s I had a tool made for me and have done the work myself iv just got to flush out the tank etc and put back together but will let you know how it goes seems to be a problem with every 3.0 td jack owner
I have a 2000 TD Jackaroo that is on its third set of injectors in 70000km according to the mechanic has been the problem each time. It has started to run rough again and miss under load. Have noticed the oil gauge on the dash fluctuates a lot from 0 to 6. Does anyone have any suggestions. Am in Melbourne Victoria is there anyone who knowes a mechanic that has any idea on this vehicle.
Fuel in the radiator is due to failing injector seals. The only cure is to replace the seals. This should be done by an EXPERIENCED mechanic. It is essential that the injector sleeves be removed and all surfaces are VERY CAREFULLY cleaned and polished. A large Holden dealer who is familiar with the Jackaroo or a diesel specialist is recommended.
Rough Running is possibly due to failing injectors or the the Oil Rail Pressure Sensor. See the above comments on the ORPS.
Low Oil Pressure between 0 and 6 is possibly due to:
– a poor electrical connection at the pressure sender (perhaps from corrosion if the vehicle has been running deep in water).
– a failing oil pump pick up. These have been known to fracture allowing air into the system and reducing the amount of oil pumped. To check this add another 3 litre of oil ie. overfill, and note any change in pressure. If the pressure remains low then the oilpan needs to be dropped and pickup checked. Whatever the result drain out the extra 3 litres immediately.
Note that an oil pressure between say 2 and 6 when idling hot is acceptable. It should be at least 5 at 1500 rpm when hot. DO NOT use heavier oil than 10W/30.
Important. Change the main filter at 10,000km and the supplementary filter at 20,000km intervals. Dirty oil and blocked filters can affect the performance of the injectors. New oil and filters have been found to improve the running of many a Jackaroo TD !!
The recommended Holden dealer in Melbourne is Garry & Warren Smith, Oakleigh, who are most experienced with the Jackaroo.
has anyone attempted to install the 3 liter turbo diesel from the rodao into a Jackaroo? if so will it bolt up to the Jackaroo clutch bellhousing etc. uses a electronicly controlled manual injector pump that would avoid problems referred to by other post’s
wondered if anyone might be ale to help with a problem I am having with my Jackaroo
It is a 98 TD 3.0L se Manual with 290 000kms on the clock I have had it since new and like everyone else I have had the recalls from Holden(who are worse than useless in Brisbane Qld) had the injector issues the flywheel and clutch issues and the car alarm going off when driving for no apparent reason etc., but I still have the Jack because when it runs properly it is great unit to own and drive and by far it has worked as it should a lot more than it hasn’t.
Recently I have had a lot issues starting and running rough and occasionally stalling In the main though once running, running as it should
After getting supremely pissed off with it one very wet day up here tyring to get the Jack started I came to the conclusion that no fuel equals no go I found that manually priming the fuel system got the beast working On one particular time even after priming the again I couldn’t get the thing to run so I bled out the line to find that it was full air Interestingly now when I start the car or the first time for the day I always prime it and it starts better than it ever did brand new almost instantly! A side note here regardless of the oil level in the sump it always works and I never let the level go any lower than half way on the dipstick. Just on the oil I change it every 10 000Ks and I change both filters I use penrite and 5 w 40 synthetic but haven’t always done this For the first 8 years I used Valvoline Super diesel I did notice a difference in performance and the engine runs cleaner than it ever did on the other stuff
With air removed out of the fuel line it runs as if nothing had been wrong when running. If I stop (and he time period can be arbitrary) it will rarely start with out prolonged cranking or priming or in worst case bleeding priming and cranking. It will run rough blow some white grey smoke all injectors will come online and run properly. usually over a period of 1 to 3 minutes. There is a strong smell of diesel when this happens but it soon passes I suspect that it is unburnt fuel sitting on the top of the pistons that passes through into the exhaust system
This issue is intermittent and I haven’t been able to work out where the air leak is
I don’t have any water in the sump or diesel in the radiator
I have and do regularly check the orps harness plug for oil leaks and it is clean Interestingly I didn’t do the last recall and have the white wire snipped on my Jack I wouldn’t trust a Holden dealer mechanic or electrical tradie with this after the experiences I have had with them I found a good mechanic who looked after the Jack for years but he has recently retired and closed up his shop so if anyone knows a good diesel mechanic who has worked on Jackaroos or larger commercial diesel trucks (as he did) I would greatly appreciate his number
I have had a Jackaroo for several years. Always used the same mechanic and had very little trouble. His number is 0437961230.
can anyone give me the name & no of a good jac/mechanic on the central coast nsw, or is there a listing available
are there any jac/clubs on central coast nsw
I HAVE JUST BOUGHT MY 3RD JAC TD 30 IT HAD 130,000 ON CLOCK IT SEEMS SERVICES WERE NEVER PERFORMED ,IHAVE JUST CHANGED OIL/5W30 20LX NULON FULL SYN=$180 +FILTERS+ AIR/.FUEL . I HAD THIS CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON PERMANANT . I DROVE DOWN TO SWAN HILL ON W/E MY UNCLE WHO OWNS A JAC TOO PUT ME ONTO HIS MECHANIC BECAUSE THE ENGINE IDLE WAS INTERMITTANT HE TOLD ME THE PROBLEM &CHANGED THE (TPS) THROTTLE POSITIONING SWITCH OUT OF HIS SEVEN SPARE JACS WHICH TELLS THE COMPUTER HOW MUCH FUEL IS NEEDED. NOW ITS IDLING BEAUTIFULLY , NEW TPS SWITCH IS APPROX $180 MONEY WELL SPENT NO MORE SURGING
hey phil, michael here mate i was just wondering with my jakaroo it starts algood then reverse a bit then it runs bit roughf i drive off an its like it surges like a blockage or somthing do you think do what you did replace tps? its a 3.2 v6 thanks mate
hey phil, michael here mate i was just wondering with my jakaroo it starts algood then reverse a bit then it runs bit roughf i drive off an its like it surges like a blockage or somthing it only happen every blue moon do you think do what you did replace tps? its a 3.2 v6 thanks mate
I’m chasing a copy of your Jackaroo tips please – having problems with my fiance’s early isuzu TD Jackaroo.
JB post of June 11th 2013
Re the air leak in the fuel line. This post is acknowledging the sharing of knowledge from David Morgan and his friend Ian. I bought David’s Jack a couple of weeks before he died but he shared this air leak problem with me when he had a good moment in hospital. Simply put the hose to the primer pump had a tiny leak. Just old age? Maybe but replacing the hoses with quality clear tubing shows whether the clamps are tight enough. No Air leak ends the problem.
Sharing another issue lets get rid of the MAP sensor replacement due to oil contamination. Block the pipe that recirculates oil vapour from the EGR? I think? Send the input into a coke bottle via a bit of tubing through the screw cap entry Minus the cap. Drill a few escape holes in the upper section to vent the vapour. Saves the $800 for a new MAP manifold replacement and problems relating to contaminated Wire sensor giving lousy speed and power. My Coke plastic bottle is mounted under the battery next to the firewall. Just empty when needed.
Hope these tips can help a few Jack-men and the noticeable Jackie-woman owners.
hi mich yes ! it did fix my problem but be careful; its a less than $ 200 part to me its only worth 30-50 $ & a 5-10 minute job to replace ive heard people get charged up to 600 to replace further more all it is ,just a spring to control the amt of fuel / regulator which wears with age dont we all !!! i would ask at wreckers for a second hand one up to 80 bucks but make sure of the vehicles klms . also get a mechanic to point it out to you so you can also try opening it up &removing the spring yourself which works just as well also you should have in the middle of your switches is a switch with a picture of a engine which works like a choke push that on for 2 mins approx/ also helps with cold starts also what oil are you running/ c/over period do you change all fuel/oil air filters regulary? what viscosity?
hello phil thanks for the help mate i ended up getting new one 150 il ask them an probly do myself thankyou phil i also just replaced my clutch an it stil slips have you got any ideas mate?
yes take it back to the mechanicwho fitted it & ask him to check the slave cylinder!! i just did the same thing replacing the dual mass system with single mass f/l h/duty and im getting varing clutch release positions & a super light clutch pedal !!! heavy duty clutch???? i dont think so jacks come out with std h/d clutch s ystem im just about to check this problem out my self
ok mate i have been back an told them about it im just waitn on a part then it goes in next week an your right the pedal is light, the part im.waiting for is a dash my speedo didnt work when i got it tryd speed sensor but that didnt fix problem thankyou mate
hi mick after nutting out the light clutch varing position on pedal release he sujjests to use a heavier grade dot /fluid/clutch he recons that after heavy use the fluid breaks down I BELIEVE THIS IS THE ANSWER
Hey phil il try that thankyou mate hey also i got dash changed to fix speedo an kms but it starts workn then stops for a minute or 2 then works do you no if it could be speedo sensor?? An i changed tps an it drives perfect now
Hi guys. I’ve just bought a 98 jackaroo and seem to have missed a few things. Firstly, there is a dual battery system installed but is disconnected. Could this be because the previous owner didn’t bother with the recall put out by holden and the fact that no-one seems happy with the fix holden provided. I’ve never owned a jack before so was totally unaware of this prob. Also it’s now pretty apparent that the guy I bought said jack from gave the whole thing one mighty good pressure clean. I knew and fully expected some sort of detailing and was impressed with how clean the wagon was. Since buying it though the thing now appears to have more oil leaks than your average sieve. Basically I’m looking for a starting point and to be honest an idea as to whether I should persevere with this car or not. Any help you guys can offer will be much appreciated. I can also take some pics if that’s ok and maybe that’ll help you help me a bit better. Cheers Al
Im a recent purchaser also but with a few historicals from previous owners. The battery was a solution for low battery voltage due mainly I think to owners or dumb service people using too high viscousity oil. This resulted in a long pressure build up time on cranking and especially when cold. Using 5w40 Penrite I have had no problems. Previous owner had been using a much higher winter rating and the crank time was quite high. The Battery ??? maybe died – get it tested at an auto parts group like Auto One etc. My vehicle is a 1998 JX1 diesel and the main battery was replaced a year ago (drivers side).
Oil leak – mine is on the passenger side. Enough to be annoying and use oil over a month to be noticed. Like yours it seems to spread all over the bottom end but mine is from the exit point from the head cover on the passenger side. Repair is a pain as the intercooler and the head cove have to come off. The plastic cable clips inside the head cover are notorious in the fact that service people break them when removing (eg for the injector replacement in my case) and are too lazy to use quality sealant to ensure an oil tight re-fit. This job is on my wish list. The manual cost me about AUD$7 from an online source (Canada I think) and was downloaded as a 3500 page PDF document. Sounds impressive but it covers around 5 or 6 variants world wide so its a good search to find the JX1 RH Drive diesel version. Nevertheless it has proved its worth and is a good starting point for work like this. I have just finished fitting a Tissue Roll bypass filter to cut down on the carbon residues and ultimately save a vast amount on oil as it is only about 1 litre that is replaced each time the tissue roll is replaced (which holds all the residual carbon and any water leakage shows as “splits” on the face of the filter. This is about my 8th fitting for the filter unit. Turned out to be quite a challenge on the Jack as the pressure take off had to be fitted onto the end of the filter as no other point is readily available. Add the lack of space and I had a tight fit behind the RHS headlight for the filter bypass housing. Worth it though as I have no carbon in the oil after 1500KM. My Jack has done 175K so overall a pretty young diesel about to hook up a 2280kg caravan this week. (Max for the Jack is 2500kg). Roof rack coming up soon – not keen on forking out $1500 for a full rack commercially so will build one myself.
Good luck with your repair. The wet oil look is worth monitoring but you will probably find it looks worse than it is but it is wise to fix as oil leaks are not welcomed in a police inspection.
Best of luck
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